Just Between Us: Second Chances in Paris - A Chat with Marie About the Neighbourhoods She Changed Her Mind About

A conversation that moves from Canal Saint-Martin to Jardin du Luxembourg—with neighbourhoods, rituals, and a few second chances.

This is a monthly series I’m writing here, Just Between Us, where I sit down with someone whose way of seeing the world I’m genuinely curious about... and we see where the conversation goes.

This month, I get to know Marie, the writer behind Parisian Sundays I Marie G.. I first came across her on Instagram, where our shared love of Paris quickly put her on my radar. When I joined Substack a few months ago, she was one of the first writers I recognized and followed. Since then, we’ve cheered each other on from opposite corners of Europe and North America, connected by a city we both return to again and again.

Marie writes about Paris differently than most people. She pays attention to the habits, rituals, and everyday moments that show us a little bit of the city over time. In this conversation, we wander from Canal Saint-Martin to Jardin du Luxembourg, debate whether certain neighbourhoods deserve their reputation, and talk about the places that slowly work their way under your skin.

So, find a sunny terrace, sit out facing the street like the Parisians and order a café crème and a croissant for this one.

Come, listen in.

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1. What’s a place you didn’t expect to like—but did?

Except for overly touristy places, I rarely expect not to like something or somewhere. I prefer having an open mind and explore whatever crosses my path. When travelling, I don’t have fixed plans saying where I’ll go or what I’ll do—in Paris, and beyond, this approach often leads me to the spots and moments I end up remembering.

However, I can mention two areas in Paris that I didn’t like at first, but have ended up loving:

The first one is Canal Saint-Martin. The first time I went there, I had been hearing about it for years and had high expectations. I remember that it was quite a cold day in March. There were few people in the streets and everything just seemed grey and unfriendly. My husband and I walked around for a little while, but quickly decided to leave and head for le Marais instead.

For years after that, I had a strong feeling that this was an overrated neighbourhood. I didn’t go back until 2024, when I decided to give it another go. Then, the atmosphere was completely different, and I immediately felt at home. I don’t know why, maybe it’s because it’s an area with a very local vibe. There are few tourists, and the days have such a strong and natural rhythm. At first sight, it can seem a bit rough, but once you get to know it it’s a place that may get a special room in your heart. You need to spend a bit of time there to get it under your skin, though. And it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. It’s not the postcard version of Paris. But it’s certainly an authentic one.

Canal St. Martin

Recommendation: Have your morning coffee and tartine at the terrace of La Marine, and watch the locals walking their dogs, reading their books, and biking to work.

The second place is Pigalle. From my first trips to Paris, I remember it as a neighbourhood where I didn’t feel comfortable. My friend and I had seen the Amélie movie and went straight to Montmartre, but didn’t fall for any of those places as there were pickpockets and tourists all around. Still, I won’t say that I like all of Pigalle. But what I discovered last year, was the area around St. Georges and Rue des Martyrs. Everything a few blocks south of Moulin Rouge, basically. Here you find peaceful, beautiful streets, lovely restaurants, local atmosphere, and also one of my favourite hotels: Hôtel Chamar. I’ve stayed there many times now, and warmly recommend it for its comfort, design, and location. For me, it feels like a home away from home.

Hôtel Chamar

2. Be honest—what’s not worth it?

People who’ve followed me for a while know that I tend to avoid any place with a line to get in. I’m not comfortable with crowds, and have no fear of missing out. I’ve never been up the Eiffel Tower, and it’s been more than 15 years since my last visit to the Louvre. Still, this is just my personal taste. And Louvre is stunning. My heart beats faster from seeing the Eiffel tower too, especially when it’s sparkling in the evening.

So, one thing is my personal taste and recommendations, they’re not for all. If I have to choose one area that I honestly don’t think is worth it, it’s an entirely different kind of place: Belleville. I have read about it so many times, how it’s been named one of the coolest neighbourhoods in Paris and is supposed to be a must-see. So, during the fall of 2024, I rented an AirBnB there with a couple of friends to live there as locals for four days.

The apartment was nice, even though the hallway resembled one in a prison. But the area? It’s a no from me. Mainly because we didn’t feel safe there during the evenings. None of us are the easily scared types, one of my friends is from Shanghai and the other one have traveled all over the world, like myself. We walked around there, visited restaurants, went for runs, explored the neighbourhood. But I don’t want to go back anytime soon. Curious to hear other people’s thoughts on this! What did we miss?

3. A place you’d go back to—without hesitation?

Oh, this is a difficult one, how to choose? I think I have to mention the place that has meant the most to me during my 19 (initial) years of Paris trips: Jardin du Luxembourg. It’s my favourite park in the world, and I’ve loved it from the first time I visited it.

What I like the most, is how you can walk just 100 metres away from the main fountain and leave most tourists behind. Then, you see daily life unfolding all around you. Locals reading, writing, drawing. Kids playing. People playing chess or pétanque. Groups of pensioners working out together. To me, this is what loving Paris is about: getting those glimpses of people living so much of their lives outdoors, in public. When you take your time to sit, observe and take part in these moments, you really see Paris at its best, I think.

Jardin du Luxembourg

4. Tell me about a meal you still think about.

I’ll choose two. One was with a very good friend of mine, who came to visit during the semester I studied in Paris in 2012. We had little money, and I actually had people visiting me almost every weekend. Therefore, I couldn’t afford going to any fancy places to eat. In general, I don’t really care a lot about going to high-end restaurants, so that wasn’t anything I considered a loss. But when my friend arrived, we decided to treat ourselves to a dinner at one of the most traditional establishments in my neighbourhood; L’Escargot in Rue Montorgueil. I don’t remember what we ate, probably no snails, but I certainly remember the experience and the waiters. We had a wonderful time there together.

The other one was at one of the fanciest restaurants I’ve ever been to: Septime. As it’s been renowned as one of the world’s best for several years, we had high expectations. Neither the food nor the service disappointed. But the most pleasant surprise was the interior. So warm, welcoming, with wooden tables and big bouquets of (apparently) wild flowers. Nothing less than gorgeous. Like a Danish summer house.

Recommendation: If you want a table, you have to be ready at 10 A.M. sharp the day the tables are released. Their online booking fills up in seconds.

You may also want to try their wine bar Septime La Cave, and seafood bar Clamato.

Septime

5. What’s a place you almost don’t want to share?

I’ve already mentioned it here, actually, it’s La Marine by Canal St. Martin. The reason I’m reluctant to sharing it, is because it’s the local atmosphere that makes it so lovely. I don’t want to see a lot of tourists there taking photos. But a few of you can go. Enjoy.

La Marine by Canal St. Martin

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As I read through Marie’s answers, I kept coming back to one thing: she’s remarkably patient with places.

Most of us decide pretty quickly whether we like somewhere or not. Marie seems willing to return, look again, and occasionally change her mind. I admire that. Some of her favourite places in Paris today are ones she didn’t connect with at all on her first visit.

I also recognize a shared travel philosophy in the way she approaches a city. She isn't chasing landmarks or trying to see everything. She's falling into the local Parisian pace: the local café, the neighbourhood that grows on you, the park bench where everyday life unfolds. It's the kind of travel that asks you to slow down long enough for a place to become familiar. She’s always paying attention to the details that many of us miss when we rush.

If that sounds like your kind of Paris, I think you’ll enjoy Parisian Sundays I Marie G.. Through observations and photography, Marie explores the city beyond its landmarks, capturing the rituals, traditions, and everyday moments that make people fall in love with it in the first place.

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