My first visit to Barthélémy, in the previous location in the ancient 1970s, was amusing - zero French, never saw eggs sold singly, butter dispensed from a butter mountain, clueless about seasonal cheeses, and made to feel totally welcomed by the bevy of ladies who compared, squeezed and proffered their treasure to enable me to choose (never touch the merchandise!). Subsequently visits taught me about aging in their basement cave, the pleasures of summer and winter cheeses, Monsieur Bartélemy’s honey and, later, that he himself had perhaps disappeared with one of my cheese tutors. Despite its discovery by tourists and foreigners, Bartélemy clings to its neighborhood vibe, still has the bevy of cheese whisperers and withstands many contemporary purveyors nearby.
What incredible memories and stories you have of this shop. Thank you for generously sharing them with me. My connection goes back 15 years, but yours...well, how impressive! I'm now very curious to know where their previous location was.
A bit of research reveals that I erred. Bartélemy has always lived on the Rue de Grenelle, but we moved. So my son could no longer detour past the shop to help himself try a sampling of cheese that the ladies often cubed onto a plate, giving their queuing clients something to eat. Of course, French mothers disapprove of snacking, although “gouter” is okay. But I overlooked this when my son reported that aged Camembert smelled like “dirty socks.” He learned something. Now, he returns happily to Barthélemy to convey an illegal Vacherin de Mont d’Or cheese, swaddled in bubblewrap to thwart dog-sniffers, to New York. They’ll age in advance and pack any cheese you desire, according to the date on which you will consume. I’ve brought back cheese purchased at Thanksgiving to be eaten at Christmas. In perfect condition.
I've visited Paris many times over the years and what jumped out at me in your post was how the staff at the shop were happy to help guide you toward the right cheeses, or what they believe you might prefer. For many Americans, this would appear to be a great surprise, but for those of us who have visited frequently, made an effort (and let me say even a slight effort) at speaking French, you might be surprised on the reaction and engagement on the receiving end. I'm assuming you are fluent in French, or at least have a good command of the language. But even in your description, I think someone who has a very limited facility with the language would receive the help they need. Am I on track here?
Yes, Henry, I’m Canadian and have grown up with French around me all my life. Am I fluent, no. But can I understand it, yes far more than the average traveller. I make a point of brushing up on my limited French just before I travel and try and speak it as much as I can while I’m there. Even if it is a “Bonjour Madame, pouvez-vous m'aider en anglais?” Thank you for taking the time to read the article, and your comment.
2 days ago I heard there is a specialty butter shop in Paris, have you heard of it? That sounds interesting a butter shop! Bob and I had dinner at a fancy place on our first trip to Paris. When the cheese cart arrived with confidence I choose 5 small pieces in the correct order as the waiter nodded at each selection. I didn't ask for help and the waiter was impressed. 😄
I get my butter from La Grande Epicerie de Paris and they vacuum seal it for you and makes it easy to bring in your carry-on. There a few cheese shops that sell all the different butter from France. But I have pinned for my next trip to check out Le Butter Shop in the 15th. You always have the best memories to share with me. Thanks for reading Jane, I always appreciate your support.
My first visit to Barthélémy, in the previous location in the ancient 1970s, was amusing - zero French, never saw eggs sold singly, butter dispensed from a butter mountain, clueless about seasonal cheeses, and made to feel totally welcomed by the bevy of ladies who compared, squeezed and proffered their treasure to enable me to choose (never touch the merchandise!). Subsequently visits taught me about aging in their basement cave, the pleasures of summer and winter cheeses, Monsieur Bartélemy’s honey and, later, that he himself had perhaps disappeared with one of my cheese tutors. Despite its discovery by tourists and foreigners, Bartélemy clings to its neighborhood vibe, still has the bevy of cheese whisperers and withstands many contemporary purveyors nearby.
What incredible memories and stories you have of this shop. Thank you for generously sharing them with me. My connection goes back 15 years, but yours...well, how impressive! I'm now very curious to know where their previous location was.
A bit of research reveals that I erred. Bartélemy has always lived on the Rue de Grenelle, but we moved. So my son could no longer detour past the shop to help himself try a sampling of cheese that the ladies often cubed onto a plate, giving their queuing clients something to eat. Of course, French mothers disapprove of snacking, although “gouter” is okay. But I overlooked this when my son reported that aged Camembert smelled like “dirty socks.” He learned something. Now, he returns happily to Barthélemy to convey an illegal Vacherin de Mont d’Or cheese, swaddled in bubblewrap to thwart dog-sniffers, to New York. They’ll age in advance and pack any cheese you desire, according to the date on which you will consume. I’ve brought back cheese purchased at Thanksgiving to be eaten at Christmas. In perfect condition.
I love this area! A quick walk to Le Bon Marche!
Oh yes, just around the corner and a couple blocks away. That’s why I love staying in this area, it’s one of my favourites.
I've visited Paris many times over the years and what jumped out at me in your post was how the staff at the shop were happy to help guide you toward the right cheeses, or what they believe you might prefer. For many Americans, this would appear to be a great surprise, but for those of us who have visited frequently, made an effort (and let me say even a slight effort) at speaking French, you might be surprised on the reaction and engagement on the receiving end. I'm assuming you are fluent in French, or at least have a good command of the language. But even in your description, I think someone who has a very limited facility with the language would receive the help they need. Am I on track here?
Yes, Henry, I’m Canadian and have grown up with French around me all my life. Am I fluent, no. But can I understand it, yes far more than the average traveller. I make a point of brushing up on my limited French just before I travel and try and speak it as much as I can while I’m there. Even if it is a “Bonjour Madame, pouvez-vous m'aider en anglais?” Thank you for taking the time to read the article, and your comment.
2 days ago I heard there is a specialty butter shop in Paris, have you heard of it? That sounds interesting a butter shop! Bob and I had dinner at a fancy place on our first trip to Paris. When the cheese cart arrived with confidence I choose 5 small pieces in the correct order as the waiter nodded at each selection. I didn't ask for help and the waiter was impressed. 😄
I get my butter from La Grande Epicerie de Paris and they vacuum seal it for you and makes it easy to bring in your carry-on. There a few cheese shops that sell all the different butter from France. But I have pinned for my next trip to check out Le Butter Shop in the 15th. You always have the best memories to share with me. Thanks for reading Jane, I always appreciate your support.
It's on the list
Glad to hear it, it's a great cheese shop, as there are many in Paris, this is among my favourites.